> Is it true that wool doesn’t stink or is that just marketing?
True. Wool is naturally anti-bacterial and it is the most naturally odor-resistant material available, even more so than chemically treated synthetics. Eventually, wool will start to smell if unwashed but it can take a very long time. If you're doing any trip that may result in unwashed kit for a few days, not just for odor but also hygiene, you should be using merino wool.
> I normally wash my kit after every ride, should I with merino?
You do you. Wool is naturally anti-bacterial and as ‘self-cleaning’ as any textile can be. As with jeans, wash as needed. One of the main eco benefits of wool is the massive reduction of the impact of machine washing and drying. As well you have the bikepacking benefits of an anti-bacterial textile for better health and hygiene on your trip.
> Can I put my wool jersey in the washing machine?
Any lightweight 185gsm garment is machine washable. The midweight 285 garments should be hand washed. See below for washing instructions for each textile.
> Can I put my wool jersey in the dryer?
No. Never.
> Do I absolutely have to wash the 285 garments by hand?
You should. Our warranty doesn’t cover shrinkage/damage by washing machine and all machines are different, some more gentle than others. As well, hand washing is easy, more garment and environmentally friendly, and it actually is more like soaking. Lastly, this is what you’ll likely do in your hotel bathroom on your trips to the Alps and practice makes perfect. That said, last time my shorts accidentally got mixed in the wash, they came out fine.
> What soap do you recommend I use on your garments?
Kookaburra Wool Wash. They’re great folks who make a great product. Any wool-safe, mild wash is good, so if you can't get Kookaburra, castile soap is also a good option. In a pinch you can use hand soap or shampoo. Try and stay away from harsh powdered detergents made for deep cleaning in a machine.
> I damaged my jersey and it has a little hole, can you fix it?
Of course, no problem, but you’ll need to ship it to us. Our repair services are free, but please send us photos first so we can assess the damage. If you have a tiny hole, you can also fix it yourself with a needle and thread very easily and save yourself the shipping time and cost.
> Should I be worried about moths?
You shouldn't be. Moths don't eat wool, it's actually their larvae which do the damage. For that, you need to have left your wool garments dirty, and unused for an incubation period of about 14 days after the unlikely event a clothing moth makes your jersey its nursery. Only after that can damage occur. So, use your garments frequently and if you aren't, make sure they are clean and then store then in a zip-lock or the packaging we send the garment in and you´ll never have a problem. Long gone are the days of a closet full of infrequently washed wool garments sitting unused for months.

Merino wool truly is a wonder material. In addition to having all the properties we desire in a performance textile (wicking, breathability, air permeability, cooling properties and UV resistance) it’s also anti-bacterial and stain resistant. The properties of wool at the ‘micro’ level reveal a super-high-surface-area of micro fibres that repel dirt penetration and evaporate sweat. Most dirt and salt can simply be brushed off the garment when dry. Lanolin (sheep’s hair grease) does the rest to kill off odor naturally. For multi-day trips, bikepacking, touring, or Audax brevets, merino is ideally suited to your needs.

All garments should be washed as needed following the instructions on the garment tag. Please, never put your garment in the dryer and avoid dry cleaning the items. As well, exercise caution with an iron and if absolutely necessary iron on very low heat.


Lightweight garments happily wash in front load washing machines on a wool cycle or gentle setting. For extended garment life they can also be easily hand washed following the 285 Midweight washing instructions further down the page:

  1. Wash with cold water.
  2. Wash with like garments and colors or alone.
  3. Use a modest amount of gentle or wool safe soap.
  4. DO NOT wash with garments that have velcro, metal hooks or metal zippers.
  5. DO NOT wash in top loading washing machines with a pole agitator.
  6. DO NOT transfer the garments into the dryer.


It really is easy and takes so much less time than hand washing your bike. Follow these simple steps:

  1. Fill a sink with enough cool water to submerge the item(s).
  2. Dissolve a minimal amount of wool-safe soap in the water.
  3. Submerge the garment(s) in the water and agitate the item in the water.
    DO NOT scrub the garment against anything harsh nor itself
  4. Leave the garment to soak at rest in the water for several minutes Remove the item from the water and squeeze as much water as possible from the garment.
    DO NOT WRING/TWIST the garment, just squeeeeeeeze.
  5. To reduce drying time you can roll the garment in a towel and stand on the towel.
    Careful!: Dye may transfer out of the garment and leave color on a white towel.
  6. Dry the garment in the sun, flat on a towel or gently hanging. If the garment is a 285gsm jersey with white panels, it’s best to slump the garment over a line so that gravity drips water AWAY from any white panels to keep the white bright and crisp. This is especially true with RED textile beside white textile and it’s best to squeeze all the water out of the red as best you can.
  7. Done! Easy!

NOTE: It is recommended to prewash all 285 midweight garments with red textile and squeeze out any excess dye to avoid transfer to other panels/garments. All Red dyes are more prone to color bleed depending on individual water pH, temperature and use.